近代以来云南彝族的服饰审美变迁特征与动因
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云南省教育厅科研基金项目:审美变迁对云南彝族服饰非物质文化遗产传承的影响(2020J311)


The Characteristics and Motivations of the Changes in Yi People′s Dress Aesthetics in Yunnan Since Modern Times
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    摘要:

    近代以来云南彝族的服饰审美历经朴素、华丽走向包容,其变迁历程包含了诸多特点:审美取向上从“族群向内趋同” 到“群体性向外趋同”,服饰造型上“繁缛复杂”与“经济实用”并存,生产技术上从“以手工生产为主”到“以工业生产为主”,审 美标准上从“单一”到“多重”。 究其原因,外因主要为社会形态的巨变、服饰原材料的极大丰富、多元文化共融的环境及工业 批量成衣对市场的侵占,内因则表现为云南彝族自身物质生活条件、服饰文化传承形式、精英群体创造力等方面的变化,以及 趋易原则的影响。

    Abstract:

    The changes in Yi people′s dress aesthetics in Yunnan since modern times goes from simplicity to luxuriance and then to inclusiveness, during which a lot of characteristics have been exposed: the aesthetic orientation evolves from " tribal inward convergence" to " collective outward convergence" ; the garment designs feature both " complexity" and " practicability" ; the production methods develop from " manual" to " industrial" ; and the aesthetic standards grow from " singularity" to " diversity" . A research into the changes show that the external causes should be the drastic social chan- ges, the enrichment of the raw material for clothes, the coexistence of diversified cultures, and the replacement of manual production by mass production in the garment industry; and the internal causes are the changes in Yunnan Yi people′s liv- ing standards, their garment inheritance patterns, their elites′ creativity, and the impacts of the tendency toward easiness. Keywords:Yi people; dress aesthetics; changes; characteristic; motivation; modern times

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唐 俊.近代以来云南彝族的服饰审美变迁特征与动因[J].西昌学院学报(社会科学版),2022,34(1):1-9.

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  • 在线发布日期: 2022-04-11